Thursday, July 5, 2007

To Honor Surfing


The inscription simply reads "To Honor Surfing"...awesome

I celebrated my Independence today by riding waves for about 6 hours and taking the type of deep beach nap that only a citizen as free as an American could enjoy. I spent the day at Manresa State Beach about 10 miles south of Santa Cruz because it seemed like every drop of water in the city was accompanied by a boardriding human. Manresa is much more spread out, although the wave lacks the quality of an in town pointbreak. The waves were waist to chest high and clean in the morning as the wind picked up throughout the day. I had a blast, riding everything from mushy outside bomb sets to speedy inside dumpers.

Windblown Manresa

After a strong beach day i headed to the Santa Cruz Boardwalk and Wharf for some world- class people watching and fireworks. As people watchers (i believe it is inherent in human existence), we must be careful not judge. I found myself judging random people today and i was taken aback by it. When we cross paths with someone, we do not have the slightest clue of that person's past, future, accomplishments, passions, digressions, problems...
Pretty much any thought we have involving them is unfounded and without truth.
He might have given his kindey to his sister: she might be running black tar heroin from Columbia. We don't know, so we shouldn't even guess. because often times, even unintentionally, these guess are hateful and inefficient. Watch on:::but think about your thoughts.

Hope ya'll enjoyed the explosions and your freedoms.

To clarify: I am not the photographer of the action Maverick's photos in the last post.

3 comments:

steve said...

chiller, loving the road trip blog..but i am despising you sitting here at work, i would like to quit my job pack my truck and get on the road for a couple week road trip all thanks to you.

once again, im glad you have experience the magnificent mountains, and your accounts of feeling back home in the ocean is equivalent to me ripping a new line in 2 ft of powder, hucking my meet on my mt bike or huggin' a billion yr old chunk of rock 14,000 ft above the great ocean...but im sure you understand this all...live the dream!

Steve-O.

Vito said...

stocker, i spent the last hour or so goinig through all this. impressive work.

hope all is well out there.

loaves and fishes,

meat.

beachbum said...

hi, i came across your site searching for info on the z boys, the original skateboarders, i love them , i love surfering, even though i never have, i have a passion to do so, i am so intrigued by the whole surf sceen, i love the whole skateboarding sceen as well, i am a true beachbum, lived along the east coast for 5 years and it has changed me even since, thanks for this intriging site, i will vist often, thanks,beachbum always