Monday, August 13, 2007


Well, i guess i am a contributing member of society again. I'm sure gonna miss the dirtbag, beach bum, vagrant life. But you can be sure that i will get back to that as soon as possible...maybe in Indonesia or how about New Zealand or maybe South Africa? Hopefully all of the above and many more before i become simple carbon again.

Little T, as my vagrant home 2 months ago somewhere around Yosemite. Special times that i will revisit ASAP!

I am now an employee of the Solana Beach School District. Starting next Monday the 21st, I am a special needs instructional aide in a 6th grade classroom of Skyline Elementary. It is exactly the type of job i planned on when i departed Ohio. The principal is very nice and also very Ocean minded. The school is located about a mile from the beach. School starts at 8:30 and ends at 3:00 so i can surf before and after even in the winter.

I knew the school was right when i saw the logo slotted in an epic barrel!

Location of Skyline Elementary- Solana Beach, CA

Location of my beach cottage- Leucadia, CA
Super stoked on the proximity of the Blue on both these maps.

Tom and I went back and volunteered for Surfers Healing again last week and had another amazing day. We have met many great people through the foundation. Also, keep an eye out for Surfers Healing on TV. There is a constant stream of national and local media crews around the event.

Biv and I went to see the premiere of a surf movie called "One California Day." It was really cool for me, first because it was my first surf movie premiere at a famous surf movie theater: La Paloma Theater in Encinitas. Second, because the movie featured many of the places that i recently paid homage to: Santa Cruz, Rincon, Malibu etc.

Making of "One California Day"

Not having a television in my house has actually been great. I got a library card and i've been stuffing my brain silly with surf literature: "Da Bull, Life on the Edge" (Greg Noll autobiography), "Men Who Ride Mountains" (interesting perspective, written in 1969), "Stoked, A History of Surf Culture" (comprehensive look at surfing as a way of life), currently reading- "Tom Blake: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman" (fascinating bio about arguably the most influential, innovative surfer ever.)

It is probably a blessing that the Pacific has not been very active these past couple weeks. Had it been chest high this whole time, i probably would not be employed right now.
Even without superb waves, i've been surfing pretty daily and i still run to the water like a stoked 13 year old gremmie. Which based on experience i kinda am. Everytime i enter the Ocean on my board, i learn something. Everytime is well worth it. A wave will line up nice or i'll just enjoy the rush of a fun wipeout. No such thing as a bad time in the Ocean.

Sunday, August 5, 2007

Settling In

Finally getting settled into my new home.

My beach cottage...My roommate, Stefanie and I are getting along great.

My backyard...i've never seen a place better suited for napping.

The Ocean has gone flat, so that has allowed me to actually be somewhat productive. I know that probably sounds weird. I have an application in at Patagonia Surf Shop in Cardiff and i have an interview with the Solana Beach School District this Friday.

Patagonia is consistently rated the best company to work for in USA. They are the greenest, most progressive corporation that exists. And they are known for shutting down when the waves are good or the powder is fresh. Their surf shop has a book section that includes not only contemporary surf books but also copies of all the historical works that mention surfing like Mark Twain's "Roughing It" and Jack London's "The Cruise of the Snark." Perfect! ::: if i can work as a Special Needs Instructional Aide for 30 hours a week and pull another 20 hours at Patagonia, i will apparently have it all.

Last Wednesday, my buddy Tom and I went to Tourmaline Beach in Pacific Beach to volunteer for the Surfers Healing Foundation. What a day! All told, we facilitated a wave-riding experience for about 50 autistic children. The camp was started by Izzy Paskowitz after he experienced the pure joy of taking his Autistic son, Isaiah surfing. Now, people come from all over the country to bring their special needs children to these day camps. The look on the children's faces and the reaction of their families on the beach will brighten the Earth forever.

The best "party wave" i've ever witnessed.

This is Sean, he was less than thrilled to get in the Ocean, but after riding his first wave, he didn't want to get off the board...continuously signing "more, more." I know exactly how you feel little buddy!

I worked as a beach marshal, helping the kids in and out of the water and retrieving boards if they got away. Tom stoked everybody by taking his camera and water housing into the lineup for some fantastic upclose shots. At one point, Izzy told me to grab a board and give it a shot. Well in all honesty, i do not currently have enough confidence in my ability as a waterman to proficiently handle a 12 foot board, a screaming kid and a crowded lineup. The ultra-talented instructors rode hundreds of waves and none of them wiped out one time. Very impressive and invaluable to the families.

Tom and I are going back to volunteer this Wednesday and i told Izzy that i would like to get involved on all possible levels. In the future, i will certainly grab a 12 footer and take a stoked child out for an experience neither of us will soon forget.

Former longboard champion and foundation founder, Israel Paskowitz and his legendary, still surfing, 86 year old father, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz. It was truly an honor being around this sweet old man. He graciously thanked me for helping and blessed my new home in Leucadia.

Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz, Mission Beach, San Diego. circa 1940

My buddy Biv and i went to stay with Chris Walsh and Brad Lafferty in Kensington on Friday night. I've known all these guys since middle school. Of course we acted a fool with plenty of illogicalness and pure malarkey. We even got to spend quality time with Brad's famous alter-ego "Laffernut." On Saturday we went and saw Walsh's band "The Frantic Romantic" perform at Scolari's Office in North Park. They rocked really hard and i left impressed not only with the band's musical acumen and originality but also their stage presence.

Laffernut, either studying for the SAT's or caught sleeping in the bar.

RockStar Walsh, Brad Lafferty- this time and Biv after the show.

Another round of South Swell is expected to arrive on Tuesday, so we're looking forward to that. Until next time.....STAY STOKED