I found this studio apartment with a great view and easy access to the beach.
Those new friends were right...Jalama is a great place. A 14 mile drive off Highway 1 through empty foothills, brought me to this throwback surf community. The campground is behind the sand dunes of a large undeveloped beach with rising cliffs bordering the area. I imagined this being many California surf arenas 50 years ago. Jovial surfers in the parking lot, talking story, waxing up.
I secured a campsite and headed out to a break called Cracks. Once again i was blessed with swell: chest to head high with periods of strong NW wind. Grinding lefts jacked up over the shallow sand bar and spit out any occupants. Had three different sessions and the Bird flew valiantly all day. This place is very exposed to the prevailing winds, so by 3:00 the waves were torn apart. But right before sunset, the wind calmed allowing for another super fun session. I also took a 4 mile hike down the beach. I have implemented a new rule for myself: all beach hikes must include a grocery bag for trash cleanup. The Ocean gives so much to us, the least we can do is keep her clean.
Tarantulas- Jalama
Cracks-Jalama
I met a group of seven very interesting thirtysomethings. All from San Diego and all very well traveled. Indo, Australia, Mexico etc: they all talked great story. Two where professional skateboarders that used to frequent the Athens/Skatopia scene. These 2 had sold their house, bought an RV and where heading up the coast the same way i came down. We exchanged notes and many more stories.
Aaron and Alisa's home
Today i traveled into the Santa Barbara/Ventura area. Although, i think i passed through the swell as it headed north, I paddled out at world famous Rincon. It was knee high, but very freakish. These waves peel perfectly forever. Once again, it was awesome just being in such hallowed water.
The Queen of the Coast- Rincon - today
Rincon perfection
I arrived in Hollywood this evening to spend the week with close close homeboys Jared and Brad. Brain mojo flows freely around these parts and we've already set out to understand the world on a subatomic level, solve human suffering and a 7 minute feature film is in the pre-production stages. Should be a brain charging week!
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